When last in Belgium we had a VERY good KRIEK - Cherry Beer
We also had a very good Framboise - Raspberry Beer [not Lambic]
Here is an extract recipe I have found for a quick Kriek look alike
Any thoughts?
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Raspberry Relief
7 LB. DME Plain Golden
1/2 LB. 20L crystal malt
1-1/2 oz. Hallertau hops (boil)
1/2 oz. Hallertau hops (finishing)
46 oz. Oregon Raspberry Puree
SAF S-05 American Ale Yeast
3/4 cup corn sugar for priming
1 tsp. Irish Moss
Steep crushed crystal malt in cold water while heating to boil. Remove grain before boil. Add malt extract and 1½ ounces Hallertau hops and boil for 45 minutes. Add Irish moss for the last 20 minutes of boil. (hydrate the Irish moss in 1/4 cup water overnight). At 45 minutes, turn off heat and add aroma hops. Cool down with wort chiller and rack into primary fermenter. Take and record the initial gravity reading. At 70 degrees pitch the yeast.
After five days, rack into secondary fermenter and add the fruit puree. Ferment for 7 to 14 days. When your hydrometer reading shows no change for two to three days, bottle using 3/4 cup of priming sugar. Beer is drinkable in one month if you like “zippy” fruit beers. Aging 6 to 8 months will let the raspberry mellow.
Options: Add 2 to 4 ounces lactose before bottling to mellow raspberries.
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True Framboise
6 LB. DME Plain Golden
2 lb. DME Plain Wheat
1/3 oz. Saaz, Fuggles, Hallertau
2 cans Oregon Raspberry Puree
1 WHOLE vanilla bean
SAF S-33 Belgian Trappist Yeast
3/4 cup priming sugar
1 tsp. Irish Moss
Boil extract and hops for 2 hours. This is the standard length of boil for Belgian style beer which removes the cheesy characteristics of the aged hops. Belgians age their hops 3 years.
Original gravity should be 1048 to 1052. Fill a primary fermenter with cooled wort and pitch yeast and ferment at 63 degrees.
After one week add raspberry puree and vanilla to a sterilized carboy and siphon wort on top. This ferment would normally be done in oak but you may add 3 oz. of French Oak cubes for a few days to one week to achieve an oak flavor. Check the oak flavor periodically to makes sure it’s where you want it. Ferment at 69 degrees for 2 weeks then, 62 degrees for one week. Rack and ferment 3 weeks at 62 degrees.
Bottle and age for at least 8 months.
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Dark Cherry Lambic
5 LB. DME Golden Light
2 LB. wheat malt extract
8 oz. malto dextrin
1 oz. Hallertau hops
1 can Oregon Cherry Puree
SAF S-33 Belgian Trappist Yeast
Dissolve the light malt extract, wheat malt extract and malto dextrin in warm water. Bring to a boil and add hops. Boil for 45 minutes. Strain out hops. Add enough water to the fermenter to make 4.5 gallons and cool to 70 degrees. Pitch yeast, add fruit puree and ferment for 3 weeks Rack into secondary fermenter and condition for a week at 60-65 degrees. Bottle condition using corn sugar for priming.
How about a Kriek [that 's not a TRUE Kriek]
- Dutch
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 1248
- Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 8:54 pm
- Location: Evansville
How about a Kriek [that 's not a TRUE Kriek]
Dutch deHaan • OVHA Board Member
Twenty-four hours in a day, twenty-four beers in a case - COINCIDENCE?
Twenty-four hours in a day, twenty-four beers in a case - COINCIDENCE?
- john mills
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 1378
- Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 2:40 pm
- Location: Near the Zoo
Re: How about a Kriek [that 's not a TRUE Kriek]
This was posted in a homebrewing yohoo group that I've saved:
"I just finished up a framboise and am very pleased with the outcome. I thought I'd share the recipe with the group and you can try it yourself.
Basic Framboise
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
Ingredients:
3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) wheat DME
3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) golden LME
0.7 lbs. dextrin malt (e.g.: Carapils)
0.3 lbs. crystal malt 10L
Calcium chloride (as needed for alkaline water chemistry)
2 oz. (57 g) well-aged Styrian Goldings 1.9% AA
1 packet dry ale yeast (style doesn't matter)
2 cans (49 oz each) Oregon raspberry puree
Pectic enzyme
Wyeast 3278 (Lambic Blend)
Step by Step
Add CaCl2 to 1 gallon water and bring to 170F. Steep the specialty grains for 30 min, strain and sparge. Add the malt extracts and 3 more gallons of water. Boil to break, add the hops and boil for 5 min. You are not trying to get hop utilization here. There is no need to boil any longer than 5 minutes.
Run the hot wort directly from the kettle to the fermenter without chilling and leave the wort in the bucket for a day or so with the lid partially open to the kitchen air. This exposure will allow enteric bacteria present in the air to add their components to the beer. If you use a glass fermenter and are concerned that you won't get enough exposure, just keep the wort in the boil kettle. If you feel the need, put a screen over the wort to keep insects out.
After a suitable delay, transfer to the fermenter if you haven't already done so and pitch a normal ale yeast. The variety doesn't matter. The yeast will rapidly change the pH and generate ethanol, both of which will help kill off the enteric bacteria but their byproducts will still be there.
After primary fermentation is done, pour one can of the raspberry puree and the pectic enzyme into a secondary fermenter. Allow the enzymes to work overnight. Activate the lambic yeast blend. Once it's going, pour it in, and rack the beer and ABOUT A THIRD OF THE SPENT YEAST on top.
Swirl to mix and store about 6 months. The beer will eventually develop a pellicle and look infected—which it is, but in a good way. Be patient. If it doesn't develop a pellicle or at least a scum on top, it's not done yet.
A month after the pellicle forms, throw in another can of raspberry puree and make up to 5.5 gallons with water. The fermentation lock will show a little renewed activity, but don't expect much.
Let it sit for another month or more. Poke a hole through the bacterial layer and rack your beer.
I think it's better to force-carbonate if you can. Adding sugar and allowing the yeast to do it will probably be okay, but who knows exactly what bug has dominance of the brew at this point.
Enjoy!
Notes:
If you have some old, stale hops, great. If not, let some age in a warm place. I purposely allowed 2 oz of Styrian Goldings pellet hops to sit in a greenhouse in an open container for two summer months. It was pretty hot out there. The pellets turned yellow on the outside but were still green when broken. I'm not sure it matters much what hops you use as long as they are low-alpha hops.
The dextrin and crystal malts ensure there are complex sugars left for the extra organisms to eat after the brewer's yeast is finished. Wheat extract is a poor man's approximation of the unmalted wheat used in the commercial breweries.
Authentic lambics aren't very carbonated, but Lindeman's comes in a champagne bottle and is very carbonated, and the BPJC guidelines expect significant effervescence. Frankly, I don't give a fig about any of that. I drank it flat and carbonated and it was very good both ways. Experiment to see what you like.
You will lose a lot of beer (more than a gallon) to the puree residue in the bottom (man, I wish I had a centrifugal filter right now!). You can probably salvage some of that via a 2-stage filtering process; or just use a coarse filter of some kind to remove the worst of it and allow the fines to settle from the filtrate. Waste not, want not.
This is, by far, the most complex-tasting brew I have ever made. Much better than Lindeman's, it is right up there with Chimay Special Reserve. It does take awhile to brew it, so you need a vintner's patience. But when you consider what such beers cost...
"I just finished up a framboise and am very pleased with the outcome. I thought I'd share the recipe with the group and you can try it yourself.
Basic Framboise
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
Ingredients:
3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) wheat DME
3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) golden LME
0.7 lbs. dextrin malt (e.g.: Carapils)
0.3 lbs. crystal malt 10L
Calcium chloride (as needed for alkaline water chemistry)
2 oz. (57 g) well-aged Styrian Goldings 1.9% AA
1 packet dry ale yeast (style doesn't matter)
2 cans (49 oz each) Oregon raspberry puree
Pectic enzyme
Wyeast 3278 (Lambic Blend)
Step by Step
Add CaCl2 to 1 gallon water and bring to 170F. Steep the specialty grains for 30 min, strain and sparge. Add the malt extracts and 3 more gallons of water. Boil to break, add the hops and boil for 5 min. You are not trying to get hop utilization here. There is no need to boil any longer than 5 minutes.
Run the hot wort directly from the kettle to the fermenter without chilling and leave the wort in the bucket for a day or so with the lid partially open to the kitchen air. This exposure will allow enteric bacteria present in the air to add their components to the beer. If you use a glass fermenter and are concerned that you won't get enough exposure, just keep the wort in the boil kettle. If you feel the need, put a screen over the wort to keep insects out.
After a suitable delay, transfer to the fermenter if you haven't already done so and pitch a normal ale yeast. The variety doesn't matter. The yeast will rapidly change the pH and generate ethanol, both of which will help kill off the enteric bacteria but their byproducts will still be there.
After primary fermentation is done, pour one can of the raspberry puree and the pectic enzyme into a secondary fermenter. Allow the enzymes to work overnight. Activate the lambic yeast blend. Once it's going, pour it in, and rack the beer and ABOUT A THIRD OF THE SPENT YEAST on top.
Swirl to mix and store about 6 months. The beer will eventually develop a pellicle and look infected—which it is, but in a good way. Be patient. If it doesn't develop a pellicle or at least a scum on top, it's not done yet.
A month after the pellicle forms, throw in another can of raspberry puree and make up to 5.5 gallons with water. The fermentation lock will show a little renewed activity, but don't expect much.
Let it sit for another month or more. Poke a hole through the bacterial layer and rack your beer.
I think it's better to force-carbonate if you can. Adding sugar and allowing the yeast to do it will probably be okay, but who knows exactly what bug has dominance of the brew at this point.
Enjoy!
Notes:
If you have some old, stale hops, great. If not, let some age in a warm place. I purposely allowed 2 oz of Styrian Goldings pellet hops to sit in a greenhouse in an open container for two summer months. It was pretty hot out there. The pellets turned yellow on the outside but were still green when broken. I'm not sure it matters much what hops you use as long as they are low-alpha hops.
The dextrin and crystal malts ensure there are complex sugars left for the extra organisms to eat after the brewer's yeast is finished. Wheat extract is a poor man's approximation of the unmalted wheat used in the commercial breweries.
Authentic lambics aren't very carbonated, but Lindeman's comes in a champagne bottle and is very carbonated, and the BPJC guidelines expect significant effervescence. Frankly, I don't give a fig about any of that. I drank it flat and carbonated and it was very good both ways. Experiment to see what you like.
You will lose a lot of beer (more than a gallon) to the puree residue in the bottom (man, I wish I had a centrifugal filter right now!). You can probably salvage some of that via a 2-stage filtering process; or just use a coarse filter of some kind to remove the worst of it and allow the fines to settle from the filtrate. Waste not, want not.
This is, by far, the most complex-tasting brew I have ever made. Much better than Lindeman's, it is right up there with Chimay Special Reserve. It does take awhile to brew it, so you need a vintner's patience. But when you consider what such beers cost...
You gonna buy one, or be one?
.....I'm gonna be one!
.....I'm gonna be one!