In trying to make the 10 gallon brewery as back friendly as possible, I'm finding ways to push all the beer around via co2 pressure or pumps. The brewing cart is one step in the process. The next is to get fermenters that I can push beer in and out of with pressure. This would be suicide with glass carboys, which I currently use. So how about a 1/2 barrel sanke stainless keg? It's plenty big for 10 gallon batches, it holds pressure, it can be sanitized, looks good to me!
I've found a few references to these.
This one uses a 9.5" cutout (like a keggle) with a large neoprene gasket and a thick sheet of plexiglass to seal it up: http://users.adelphia.net/~aken75/Ferme ... 20Lid.html
This might work but I'm not sure how to pressurize it and not die from exploding plexi shards.
In doing some more research I found that you can take out the center spear of the keg and attached a 2" tri-clover fitting right to the top of the keg. They make simple cap disks for the fitting that will seal the keg for about $8 in parts: http://www.klgstainless.com/Ferrule.html
This site takes it a step further with welding ports to the cap for a dip tube and co2. I really need this same setup with corny ball lock fittings and I'd be all set. http://www.stpats.com/oakbarrels.htm#SankeTCGasket
During fermentation you can use a #10.5 drilled stopper and airlock.
The down side with not cutting out a large hole in the top is getting the thing clean. You really can't see in there.
I guess I should also check to see if this will even fit in my chest freezer/ferment chamber.
Anyway, this is just some thoughts on the subject. Any comments?
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- Chris Norrick
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The Next Project: Sanke Fermenter
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- Kenny Lucas
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My fear is the same as yours as in I don't think it would be very easy to clean, unless you want to spend a fortune on PBW every brew session. Of course, the budmillercoors boys must have a way to clean to old yellow stuff out.
If you could find me someone with a TIG welder, we could cut the top section off of a corny and weld it to the top of the Sanke, the best of both worlds. My MIG welder isn't a clean enough weld.
If you could find me someone with a TIG welder, we could cut the top section off of a corny and weld it to the top of the Sanke, the best of both worlds. My MIG welder isn't a clean enough weld.
- Chris Norrick
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I think I seen those hybrids somewhere. Maybe Sabco. I've also seen some DIY fermenters with a oval cut out on the bottom of the keg for a corney lid and a triclover on the top and the whole thing is used upside down like a conical. That still uses gravity and is not what I'm looking for. I wonder how much co2 I'll use to get 10 gallons out of this thing?
I got ahold of a sanke tap and drained the keg. Took awhile to get the spear out. Those split rings are a bitch. I modified a screwdriver to remove it. Be sure the keg is totally de-pressureized! There was some nasty, nasty stuff in there. A bunch of white stringy stuff. Ick! I rinsed it out and put some PBW in there for a good soak.
I got ahold of a sanke tap and drained the keg. Took awhile to get the spear out. Those split rings are a bitch. I modified a screwdriver to remove it. Be sure the keg is totally de-pressureized! There was some nasty, nasty stuff in there. A bunch of white stringy stuff. Ick! I rinsed it out and put some PBW in there for a good soak.
Chris Norrick
Up Next: OVHA Barrel Brew
Fermenting:
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- jefrey3
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Next time get a gear puller to press the valve assembly down. The ring will come out easily. You need something to press against that will span the valve itself. We also use a turn buckle bolted to gear puller to hold it open at the right size.
Auto Zone will loan out a gear puller. You have to put down a deposit, but you get it back when you return the tool.
Auto Zone will loan out a gear puller. You have to put down a deposit, but you get it back when you return the tool.