OVHA Chat

So lets talk about water profiles.
I downloaded EZ Water Calculator, and input the most recent numbers for Newburgh water.
First I just put in the amount of water that I will be using. I left distilled/RO fields at 0%
I input my grain bill, and can see with minor adjustments using salts/acids, I can put all my numbers in range.

So then I changed the distilled/RO fields to 50% for each
It dramatically changed my numbers, and would require a larger amount of salts/acids to adjust the numbers into range.

Why should I continue to use RO water instead of using filtered water straight from the tap?

Seems Im mostly taking away what Im re-adding in by using RO water with tap water.

Brandon

don't re-add a lot of salts to replace yours
In this case just try less of RO and see where that brings you.

I just made a Oatmeal Stout and used 100% Newburgh water, I did a little adjusting for the spare water but not much.

Bigger beers less RO (in my case)...

When I make my IPA I use 100% RO and add a few salts.

This isn't really a big beer, 10 lbs 2 row, 1/2 lb of flaked oats, and 1/2 lb flaked barley.
So I punched in my numbers with and without RO water and here is what I get.
Maybe Im just doing this totally wrong?
One thing I did notice is my effective alkalinity in both cases goes negative.
Is this bad?

I will have to play with this.. I don't have this version of EZWater, I'm using Ver#1 which doesn't have the grains.

Anymore, I mainly use BeerSmiths water profile, input Newburgh's water, and play with RO until I get close to where I want to be, and then I'll adjust a little from there.

You need to read up on brewing waters before going too far.

First you want to know @ what range you want the different salts to be for the beer you are making!

Then I (with adding as little salts as possible) try to adjust from there.

You can do more harm by over adding salts.

Most of the time with a average grain bed you will get 6.0 - 5.8 pH. with city water or adding a little RO and have a good water profile.

If your going to adjust your water read up on what effect sulfates & chlorides amount and ratio does to your beers.

I'll look at the new EZ Water sheet and see if I can figure it out.

Without analyzing too closely, it does appear to me you are using the spreadsheet correctly.

I use the John Palmer spreadsheet and only concern myself with the color of the beer I am brewing, the residual alkalinity needed to get the PH where it needs to be for that color and the sulfate to chloride ratio to make sure it is in line with what I am brewing.

Most of the time I use a determined percentage of RO along with Calcium Chloride (with Newburgh water Calcium Chloride is your friend) and I can hit 5.2 - 5.3 without any issues. If I am going really light (3 - 5 SRM) I use 100% RO and use Calcium Chloride, Gypsum and Baking Soda to get the numbers I need for a good balance.

I have never been too low on the mash PH. I have been on the high side before (5.7 - 5.9) and the only side effect I noticed was a decrease in mash efficiency. I didn't notice anything wrong or off with the finished beer.

I used to get really caught up in matching the brewing water from the region of the beer I was making. Now I just use the spreadsheet to make sure I am at the residual alkalinity needed to get the PH in line with the color and the sulfate to chloride ratio correct for the beer I am making.

I've never really messed with water but here is something on a excel spreadsheet that some brewers use called "Bru'n Water"

http://www.homebrewdad.com/index.php?blogid=73

Thanks for all the input guys! This water stuff is mind boggling to me. I will look at the john palmer spread sheet as I have not tried that one. Brun water looks awesome but it is overwhelming to me. I'll keep trying though.... On my way to making excellent beer!