10 Gallon

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:05 am

Thanks, I'll delay ordering parts until I see your presentation. Should be a big help, I appreciate it. I'd like to get some notes also on all the extra parts I'll need to order for it so I can pay with one shipping charge.

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:46 pm

Is anyone using this pump?

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/TRANSFER ... 08C107.cfm

john mills · Post by **john mills** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:16 pm

Check out the pumps from the Grainger catalog http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/vi ... tPage=2787 most brewers are using the 1/25 hp motor. I believe this is overkill. The pumps all have their raitings for continous use. How long do you plan to use it continously? 1 hour during mash? 1 hour during sparge? Are you planning on pumping from the floor to the celing? I believe the 1/200 hp pump would work for homebrewing. It's a lot cheaper, more portable, and uses 1/4 less power keeping blood sucking Vectren at bay. But if you want to ensure you don't burn up your pump during mash when you pass out while relaxing with a homebrew, the extra $$ spent for the Tim Taylor more power pump is your insurance policy. Check with Kenny, I think he has a Grainger connection too.

Has anybody used the smaller pump? That they might back up my ramblings?

Jim W · Post by **Jim W** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:50 pm

Chirs, I am looking forward to the kegging demo as I missed out on your last one. However, I am curious, it appears you are focusing on filling the keg. Will we be doing any work emptying the keg?

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:58 pm

Well that is part of my question I guess. I was hoping to avoid an inbetween stage where I held a resevoir during the sparge. My sparge is usually good by at the absolute most, 45 minutes. I'd really like to drain out of the bottom valve of my mash, down to the floor, then pump back up to a holding tank I heat at 168 which will then drain back down and spray the mash pot. That means that I can not pump too fast or I would have to turn it on and off a bunch which means unplugging that unit. I would much rather have a variable control on the pump and I won't be pumping higher than about 4 to 5 feet.

Jim W · Post by **Jim W** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:11 am

Regarding the pump on the link to Williams, and coming from a pump salesperson, the mag drive is the way to go. Properly constructed it will give you years of trouble free service.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:42 am

Jim, does PVC have a similar pump to the ones being discussed? That might be the way to go. There is a definite advantage to being able to get things close to home.

Jim W · Post by **Jim W** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:41 am

I need to look and see on Tuesday. I won't be in the office on Monday.
Since most of ours are industrial, it may just be that I have access to them. If I have access to them, we can see if I can get them cheaper. I actually really like the looks of that Williams pump. And I did not think the price was too bad. I just know I see a lot more pumps being rebuilt that aren't mag drive. Now that I think about it, I have a friend working for a company that just sells pumps. I will ask him, as well.

Chris Norrick · Post by **Chris Norrick** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:42 pm

This is the pump I use on my system. It's a March 809 with a polysulfone (plastic) head. The head is rated to 250 F food safe. This is important to me as I use it in my wort chilling scheme and the only way to sanitize it is to run boiling wort through it. There is also a bronze head that is more durable and more expensive.

john mills · Post by **john mills** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:39 pm

Digging around on Ebay, I found these pumps. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :IT&ih=005 while it isn't rated above boiling, the price is great. Anybody have any feedback on this pump?

Chris Alvey · Post by **Chris Alvey** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:18 pm

Since we're on the topic of pumps, I have a question. Is it a big deal in getting a 'Self Priming' pump vs. one that is not self priming?

I have this idea of building an interchangeable system (via quick disconnects) that gets liquid out of a keg that does not have a valve attached. I have assumed that you can get around a non-self-priming pump because the valve allows liquid to get into the pump and no need for a prime (right?.) So, if one does not use a valve, would the not-self-priming pump not work for this application ? Ok, that's a double negative but I think you get what I am saying.

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:13 am

Well I did it! The conical is ordered.

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:35 pm

It's here already! I can't believe I'm out of town this weekend.

Looks like Feb 2 for the kickoff.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 4:57 pm

Send a picture of your new "baby"!!!!

sirgiovanni · Post by **sirgiovanni** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:16 am

I took it out and cleaned everything and put it together. It was a snap to clean. In fact, most of the parts fit in my dishwasher tray and the conical was easy to clean in the shower. I'm definately looking forward to trying her out. I have a few more things I'm waiting for.