This is where I got. I have the framework finished for the most part. I still need to do some grinding so that I can paint. I need to get some mounts for the burners and run some gas lines. I am thinking about having a panel with the burner controls and auto ignites. I haven't figured out all the details on that but I have time. I am going to Harbor Fright to get me some castors and Rural King to see what they have that may help with the control panel. I have to give a HUGE thanks to Chris for documenting his as well as he did. It helped me a ton.
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Brew Sculpture 101
- Chris Norrick
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 2544
- Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:21 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
- Contact:
Very nice Robby!
I've brewed on mine about 10 times and the layout seems to work very well. I think you'll have good luck with it. A control panel would be nice. The gas adjustment on mine is a little tricky. The gas ball valves don't have very fine adjustment and are not located in very convenient locations.
The March 809 pump came from one of the homebrew shops, not sure which one, they all seem to carry it. If you are going to run boiling wort through it (I use it to whirlpool) be sure to get the hi-temp polysulfone head.
I've brewed on mine about 10 times and the layout seems to work very well. I think you'll have good luck with it. A control panel would be nice. The gas adjustment on mine is a little tricky. The gas ball valves don't have very fine adjustment and are not located in very convenient locations.
The March 809 pump came from one of the homebrew shops, not sure which one, they all seem to carry it. If you are going to run boiling wort through it (I use it to whirlpool) be sure to get the hi-temp polysulfone head.
Chris Norrick
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- Kenny Lucas
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:30 pm
- Location: Alittletooclosetokentucky, IN
- Chris Norrick
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 2544
- Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:21 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
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Well, santa dropped a plate chiller in my stocking so it's brew cart modification time!
I figured I'd do some other projects to it that I've been putting off too.
I made a better wet shield for the pump with a 2L bottle and some aluminum flashing.
It seems ever time I brew I get a lot of wind off the side of the garage and straight into the boil kettle burner so I riveted on the wind screens that were on the original turkey fryers with some L brackets made from scrap aluminum bar. I then boxed in the burners with some more aluminum flashing on three sides. These upgrades should fix the wind problem and improve my fuel economy.
I finally replaced the boil kettle jet burner with that ring burner that I've had for a year.
I have the plate chiller where I want it and I'll just attach it with some SS hose clamps for easy removal/cleaning. I'm putting the same quick disconnects on it that I use for all my other connections to keep things simple.
I've been researching some auto igniters. They seem to be in the $20-$30 range. Most take a couple of AA batteries and are push button and send several sparks per second when activated. I'll need to modify one with a different switch that will stay on because the valve and switch are too far apart to control both at once. I don't think they come with an electrode because most are replacements for dead BBQ grills. I'm sure you can get the electrodes too. I'll post back when I get it all figured out.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3148101138/" title="IMG_0270 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3132/314 ... cc26d4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0270"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3147269899/" title="IMG_0271 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/314 ... 232af3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0271"></a>
I figured I'd do some other projects to it that I've been putting off too.
I made a better wet shield for the pump with a 2L bottle and some aluminum flashing.
It seems ever time I brew I get a lot of wind off the side of the garage and straight into the boil kettle burner so I riveted on the wind screens that were on the original turkey fryers with some L brackets made from scrap aluminum bar. I then boxed in the burners with some more aluminum flashing on three sides. These upgrades should fix the wind problem and improve my fuel economy.
I finally replaced the boil kettle jet burner with that ring burner that I've had for a year.
I have the plate chiller where I want it and I'll just attach it with some SS hose clamps for easy removal/cleaning. I'm putting the same quick disconnects on it that I use for all my other connections to keep things simple.
I've been researching some auto igniters. They seem to be in the $20-$30 range. Most take a couple of AA batteries and are push button and send several sparks per second when activated. I'll need to modify one with a different switch that will stay on because the valve and switch are too far apart to control both at once. I don't think they come with an electrode because most are replacements for dead BBQ grills. I'm sure you can get the electrodes too. I'll post back when I get it all figured out.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3148101138/" title="IMG_0270 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3132/314 ... cc26d4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0270"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3147269899/" title="IMG_0271 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/314 ... 232af3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0271"></a>
Chris Norrick
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- Chris Alvey
- Brewmaster
- Posts: 701
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:15 am
- Location: Newburgh, IN
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Are those auto-igniters all-metal? How do they not melt? Could I make such a thing for my regular turkey-fryer type burner?
Brew365 : http://www.brew365.com
- Chris Norrick
- Brewmaster
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- Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:21 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
- Contact:
Shirron plate chiller with fittings from McMaster-Carr.
Quick disconnects: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=6739K59
Garden hose F to 1/2 in MPT F: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=70815T43
1/2 in MPT F to 1/2 in MPT F: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=50785K94
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3154329224/" title="IMG_0273 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/315 ... fc54bf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0273"></a>
This auto igniter I'm talking about is just like the one on a bbq grill except for rotating a knob or pushing a click button for one spark (piezo) it uses a battery and a push button to shoot lots of sparks per second. You will need to wire leads from it to an electrode at the flame. Here is one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Market-Merchants- ... _rhf_p_t_3
This wiring usually has a ceramic post where the electrode gets close to the flame (where the spark gap will be) to protect it from heat damage. I'm not sure how this will actually work in practice, it's all theory at this point.
Quick disconnects: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=6739K59
Garden hose F to 1/2 in MPT F: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=70815T43
1/2 in MPT F to 1/2 in MPT F: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=50785K94
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cnorrick/3154329224/" title="IMG_0273 by cnorrick, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/315 ... fc54bf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0273"></a>
This auto igniter I'm talking about is just like the one on a bbq grill except for rotating a knob or pushing a click button for one spark (piezo) it uses a battery and a push button to shoot lots of sparks per second. You will need to wire leads from it to an electrode at the flame. Here is one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Market-Merchants- ... _rhf_p_t_3
This wiring usually has a ceramic post where the electrode gets close to the flame (where the spark gap will be) to protect it from heat damage. I'm not sure how this will actually work in practice, it's all theory at this point.
Chris Norrick
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